Freezer Repair in Los Angeles

In-home repair for upright and chest freezers, freezer columns, built-in freezer drawers and the freezer section of your refrigerator, from garage freezers by Frigidaire and GE to Sub-Zero and Thermador columns.

$65 diagnostic applied toward an approved repair • Clear estimate before work begins • 183-day parts and labor warranty.

A freezer that stops cooling puts a lot of food at risk at once. Keep the door closed: a full freezer holds temperature much longer than an empty one. Call before 11 AM for the best chance at a same-day diagnostic.

Freezers fail in a few predictable ways: the cooling system stops removing heat, the defrost system stops clearing frost, or the door stops sealing. We test each one.

Upright freezers are built much like a refrigerator without the fresh-food section: an evaporator behind a back panel and a fan, plus a defrost heater, defrost thermostat and timer or control board on frost-free models. Manual-defrost uprights cool through the shelves instead.

Chest freezers are simpler. The cooling lines are wrapped around the cabinet walls, and most models have no fan or defrost system. When a chest freezer stops cooling, it's usually the compressor start components, the thermostat, a refrigerant leak, or a lid that no longer seals.

Refrigerator freezers share parts with the rest of the fridge, so a freezer problem is often a fan, defrost or airflow problem that affects the whole unit.

• We find the cause before replacing parts, so you don't pay for a compressor when a relay will do
• Upright, chest, column and refrigerator freezers
• $65 diagnostic, applied toward the repair if you go ahead
• Written estimate before any work starts
• OEM parts for built-in freezers
• Honest advice when an inexpensive freezer isn't worth fixing
• Licensed in California, License A 50129
• 183-day warranty on parts and labor for completed repairs

Until we arrive, keep the door shut. According to USDA guidance, a full freezer with the door closed holds a safe temperature for about 48 hours, a half-full one for about 24.

Most freezer repairs are worth doing: fans, relays, defrost parts, thermostats and gaskets. A sealed-system repair, meaning a refrigerant leak or a failed compressor, is a bigger job and usually only makes sense on a built-in or a newer, higher-end freezer.

For an inexpensive chest or upright freezer with a sealed-system failure, replacing it is often the smarter choice. We'll give you the estimate and our honest opinion, and the decision is yours.

Property managers: we can coordinate access with tenants and send the estimate to the owner.

The most common causes are a defrost failure that has iced over the evaporator, a failed evaporator or condenser fan, a dirty condenser, or a faulty start relay on the compressor. A door that doesn't seal can also keep it from getting cold enough.

Yes. We repair chest freezers and upright freezers in homes and garages, both manual-defrost and frost-free models.

According to USDA guidance, a full freezer with the door kept closed holds a safe temperature for about 48 hours, and a half-full freezer for about 24 hours. Try not to open it until we arrive.

$65, applied toward the repair if you approve it. You get a written estimate before any work begins.

On a frost-free freezer, heavy frost on the back panel usually means the defrost system has failed: the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat or the control. Frost on food and around the door usually means the door isn't sealing.

It depends on what failed. Fans, relays, thermostats, defrost parts and gaskets are usually worth replacing. A sealed-system failure on an inexpensive freezer often isn't. We'll tell you after the diagnostic.